The Chasis

Lets grow the sport

I see a lot of questions about wide frame and narrow cub frames for diesels. If you plan on using an original frame I think the 82 series is the way to go. Personally I don’t like using a stock frame for a few reasons. I find they are not very sturdy and after you remove what you don’t need they are full of holes.
The other reason is the wheel base is too short.
The rules allow for a 56 inch wheel base and I have found a long wheel base makes for a calmer tractor that tracks true.

The Chasis

For around 75 bucks or less you can buy some rail material and make your own frame.
Nice and neat and clean. I used 3/16 thick and started out with two 6 ft lengths that I cut down after to length.
You can use a cub frame as reference for diff bolt pattern.

I tried something that worked out pretty good to deal with the offset input shaft of the cub diff.
I added plates to one side of the frame were the diff bolts to bring the input to center making the engine mounting a lot easier to deal with.

In addition this made my frame a little wider than a cub giving more clearance for the flywheel.
I then added a spacer of the same thickness behind one rim to keep my wheel base equal.
When attaching your front axle it would be a good idea to make it possible to adjust the rake or pitch angle of the tractor.
I did this by bolting my axle to the frame and then I can add aluminum blocks to raise front end in 1/2 increments. Simple but effective.

I put my battery under my seat to keep the weight over my wheels. I use a 660 CCA battery that is low profile and it will last 4 hooks easily before needing recharge.

I machined inside the housing and pressed a cup up inside. I then put lower cup into a bushing and use the stock cub threaded cap to set the load on the bearings and locked it with the stock style cotter pin.
Not completely happy with it but better than stock.
I will at some point change it out. I really do not like the cub cadet steering box.
I find it never works very well. I removed the cheap plastic bearing cage and balls and replaced them with a cup and cone setup.


Is a good idea to put some well placed handles on your tractor for those rodeo rides that are bound to happen.


Try to give yourself as many weight placement options as possible.
I have a pan under differential that can hold 120lbs also rack just in front of my rear wheels that I can use round weights, and one on the nose that can hold 45

Try to build your tractor as light as possible. Its nice to be able to add weight in places that help.
All of my sheet metal work was done in 16 to 18 gauge aluminum. The total weight of my body panels including fenders,  seat pan, hood, side panels, frame caps, dash, tunnel cover is 20.5 lbs.

Compared to all steel parts of 18 gauge it would have been 64 lbs.  Most LPSD weight classes are between 1100 and 1150.
To meet 1150 requirement I normally add about 150lbs to my tractor.
That is a nice option to have.
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