The Clutch

We all want to change the world. But when you talk about destruction, don’t you know that you can count me out. Don’t you know it’s gonna be alright?

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So there are many ways to setup your clutch but if you decide to go with a clutch from MWSC or Zack Kerber you need a double five puck clutch or the big 12 puck clutch from Zack.
The double 5 uses the 5/8 drive shaft and the 12 puck uses a 1 inch shaft.
I have run my double 5 from Zack for two seasons now without any issues.
I believe the cost for the two setups is pretty close but the big clutch makes things kinda cramped but that one inch drive shaft is nice and strong.

The Clutch

This is a single 5 from Zack Kerber very well built I decided at last minute to add one to make it a double.

This is Zack Kerber big 12 puck clutch real nice stuff. I would think it would take some time for it to slow down in order to shift into gear.

This one is sold by Vogel but I think they have a larger one that might be better for diesel.

So a few things make sure that your drive shaft is perfectly inline with diff input and remember the diff input is offset to one side. The rules say you need a billet flywheel so have your pilot bearing and driver pins put right into the flywheel. 

You will need to remove your starter ring gear and put it on new flywheel this is done by heating it. If you are using the 5 puck clutch use some grade 8 blots and just cut off the heads. Remember there is a bolt pattern. The flywheel will only bolt to crankshaft in one position. 

Front Pulley

So the 1105 has a offset weight front pulley and flywheel. The reason given by Kubota is this  stops the rocking motion that the 3cyl firing order creates. 

Most billet flywheels are made balanced so it makes sense to me to replace the front pulley with a uniform balanced type to reduce vibration. The front pulley from the D1505 4cyl is balanced as shown in the pics. 

Very important to add a hanger bearing between engine and diff just behind spring. The collar on the bearing must be locked to the shaft otherwise when pushing clutch you put all that tension onto your coupling bolt and input shaft. For extra hold I added a split collar on shaft against bearing also locked to shaft.

I use a 4 inch coupler that way I can remove the clutch by sliding the 5/8 shaft back into coupler allowing me to clear the drive pins and remove the clutch and shaft without touching engine or diff.
Some guys have done a hydraulic setup for clutch with good success. I personally like a mechanical setup I find you feel the clutch release better through your foot.

I used the same principle as cub cadet setup but made a few improvements. I made a heavier bell crank and a longer clutch pedal arm for more leverage and better release. Remember a longer bell crank will reduce your leverage and make the clutch action much quicker. Keep it close to the cub length.

The rules say your clutch and flywheel need to be encased for safety as well as your front pulley.

A very simple clutch compression tool if you don’t have a press.
Two 3/4 threaded rod and two square tubes one with a hole for driveshaft.
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